Laser Cutting: The Ultimate Guide

How to Use This Guide

This page adapts Sculpteo's "Laser Cutting: The Ultimate Guide" into a maker-focused reference for Kalamazoo Makerspace members. Use it as a deep-dive companion to our practical How to Use a Laser Cutter page.

Introduction: What Is Laser Cutting?

Laser cutting is a digital manufacturing process that uses a focused laser beam to cut or engrave material. Instead of shaping material with blades or drill bits, the laser removes material along a path defined by a design file.

A laser cutter concentrates a large amount of energy into a tiny spot. Where the beam meets the workpiece, the material either melts, burns, or vaporizes, and a stream of gas blows the debris away. The result is a narrow kerf and a clean edge. With the right machine and material, you can cut sheet stock up to roughly 20 mm thick.

Because the laser follows a design in a vector file, it is ideal for repeatable parts, intricate patterns, and quick iterations. That same precision makes laser cutting a great partner for 3D printing, CNC routing, and traditional shop tools.

Next: Origins and Operating of Laser Cutting Back to Index

Part I: Origins and Operating of Laser Cutting

Before we talk about settings and materials, it helps to understand where lasers came from and how a laser cutter actually works.

Laser at Its Origins

The word "laser" is short for "Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation". The idea grew out of early work on microwaves and radar. Physicists realized that if you could coax atoms into releasing light in a coordinated way, you could create a very pure, intense beam.

During the mid‑20th century, researchers like Charles Townes, Arthur Schawlow, Gordon Gould, and Theodore Maiman explored how to turn this theory into hardware. They first built masers, devices that amplified microwaves. Later, by moving to much shorter wavelengths and using special materials such as ruby crystals, they were able to create the first functioning lasers.

From Research Tool to Industrial Device

Early lasers were mostly scientific instruments. Colored laser beams made it possible to study how atoms and molecules absorb light with great precision, which transformed spectroscopy and other branches of physics.

Engineers quickly saw that a tightly focused laser could also act as a heat source. In the 1960s, labs began using lasers to drill tiny, accurate holes where traditional tools were slow or wore out quickly. Experiments with assist gases, especially oxygen, showed that combining a laser beam with a jet of gas could dramatically improve cutting speed and edge quality. This combination is the foundation of modern laser cutting.

From Lasers to Laser Cutting

By the late 1960s and 1970s, companies started putting lasers on the production line. Aerospace manufacturers used them to cut tough alloys and drill turbine blades. Automotive companies cut complex shapes in sheet metal. Over time, new types of lasers, better optics, and improved motion systems made the process faster, more reliable, and suitable for many more materials.

Today, laser cutting is a standard option in industrial fabrication, product design, and rapid prototyping. Thanks to desktop and mid‑size machines, it is also common in makerspaces, schools, and small businesses.

How a Laser Cutter Works

A laser cutter starts with a resonator that generates the laser beam. Depending on the machine, the active medium might be a gas mixture such as CO2, a solid crystal, or a fiber. Energy from light sources or electrical discharge excites the medium, and mirrors bounce the light back and forth until a beam emerges through a partially reflective mirror.

From there, mirrors and lenses guide and focus the beam down to a fine spot at the work surface. The machine keeps a small, controlled gap between the lens and the material so the beam stays in focus. Assist gases such as oxygen, nitrogen, or air blow through the nozzle to clear molten material from the kerf and influence how the cut behaves.

Most makerspace machines use a gantry system that moves the beam in X and Y above a flat bed, similar to a plotter. Some industrial systems use galvanometer mirrors for high‑speed engraving or multi‑axis motion to work on 3D shapes.

Cutting, Engraving, Rastering, and Kerf

In practice, laser cutters perform three main operations:

  • Cutting – the beam goes all the way through the material, separating pieces.
  • Linear engraving (scoring) – the beam follows vector lines on the surface to draw outlines, labels, and fine details without cutting through.
  • Rastering – the laser scans back and forth across an area, burning away the top surface to create filled graphics, photos, or textures.

Your vector file decides which operation the machine performs. Typically, different line colors and stroke settings are mapped to "cut", "score", or "raster" in the laser software. For example, many workflows use a thin red hairline for cuts, a thin blue line for scores, and solid black fills for raster engraving. Always follow the color legend and templates posted next to the laser you are using.

All of these operations are affected by kerf, the width of material that is actually removed by the beam. Thicker materials need slower speeds and higher power, which makes the kerf wider. If you are designing parts that fit together (press‑fits, tabs, or box joints), prototype a small section of your design and measure the fit so you can compensate for kerf and material tolerance.

Kerf can also be used creatively. By cutting repeating "kerf cut" patterns into rigid sheets such as plywood or acrylic, you can make them bend like a woven material. Different patterns produce different bending behavior, from smooth curves to living hinges.

Why Laser Cutting Is So Useful

Compared with traditional cutting tools, a laser has several advantages:

  • Very fine kerf and excellent positional accuracy, ideal for intricate shapes and tight layouts.
  • Good edge quality with minimal post‑processing on many materials.
  • Easy repeatability—once your file is dialed in, you can cut the same part again and again.
  • Ability to cut, engrave, and mark using the same machine.
  • Wide material compatibility, especially for woods, paper products, acrylic, and many plastics when using a CO2 laser.
  • Contact‑free cutting, which reduces mechanical wear and stress on delicate parts.

For makers, that combination means you can move quickly from idea to prototype, then refine or scale up without changing tools.

Next: From Design to Object Back to Index

Part II: From Design to Object

Laser cutters follow instructions from a digital design. Understanding files and materials is just as important as knowing which buttons to press on the machine.

Which Materials Can Be Cut?

Lasers can process many different materials, but not every material is safe or practical on a CO2 machine. In general, sheet thickness up to about 20 mm is possible on powerful industrial equipment; our makerspace machines typically handle much thinner stock.

Below is a simplified overview based on common makerspace and lab practice. Always follow the posted materials list and safety rules for the specific laser you are using.

Materials that are typically laser‑safe (with approval)

  • Uncoated paper products: illustration board, card stock, chipboard, and cardboard.
  • Many woods: softwoods and hardwoods, Baltic birch plywood, and other plywoods intended for laser or craft use.
  • Cast acrylic and other clearly labeled laser‑safe plastics such as some PET‑G and acetate films.
  • Natural fabrics and some synthetics: cotton, wool, felt, and select polyester blends.
  • Real leather and other organic leathers (not vinyl or bonded leather).
  • Cork, some rubbers, silicone, and linoleum that are specified as laser‑safe.

MDF and similar fiberboards can cut well on a CO2 laser, but some labs have stopped using them due to smoke and binder fumes. If you plan to cut MDF or engineered boards, confirm that they are allowed at Kalamazoo Makerspace and follow all ventilation rules.

Materials that should not be laser cut

The following categories are based on the "cannot cut" lists used in many teaching labs:

  • Toxic fume risks: PVC and vinyl, polycarbonate/Lexan, ABS, foamed polystyrene and foam‑core presentation board, styrene, many "unknown" plastics, and some composites.
  • Problematic leathers and fabrics: pleather and fake leather, bonded leather, heavily coated or treated textiles.
  • Fire and geometry issues: double‑wall corrugated cardboard, severely warped sheets, and materials thicker than your machine's posted maximum.
  • Not suitable for cutting on our CO2 laser: most metals, Corian and similar solid‑surface materials, glass, stone, tile, and ceramics. These may only be engravable under very specific conditions, if at all.

Materials that contain chlorine compounds (for example, many PVC and vinyl products) release corrosive and toxic fumes that can severely damage the machine and harm people. If you are not 100 % certain what a plastic is, treat it as unsafe until a trainer has inspected and approved it.

Cardboard, Acrylic, Plywood, and MDF

These four materials show up again and again in hobby and professional projects. Each has its own personality:

Cardboard

Inexpensive and easy to cut, cardboard is great for mock‑ups, packaging trials, and kids' projects. It is light and stiff, can be folded, glued, taped, and painted, but it is not durable and reacts badly to moisture and open flame.

Acrylic

Acrylic is a rigid plastic available in many colors and thicknesses, including clear, translucent, opaque, fluorescent, mirrored, and two‑tone engravable sheets. Laser‑cut edges come out glossy and "polished". Acrylic can be brittle, so sharp corners and post‑drilled holes need extra care.

Plywood

Plywood is made from thin veneers of wood laminated with alternating grain directions. It balances strength, stiffness, and weight, and it engraves nicely. Thickness can vary slightly between batches, and cut edges may leave a light char that can rub off.

MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard)

MDF is a smooth, uniform panel made from wood fibers and resin. It cuts cleanly on the laser and takes paint or finish well. It is heavier than plywood, not happy in damp environments, and does not have high mechanical strength, but it is excellent for prototypes, fixtures, and decorative items.

How to Create a Laser‑Ready Vector File

Laser cutters expect a vector file that describes paths, shapes, and colors, not just pixels. The file tells the machine where to cut, score, or engrave. Common formats include SVG, PDF, AI, CDR, DXF, and DWG, depending on your software and workflow.

You can create these files in many programs:

  • Illustration tools such as Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape.
  • 2D and 3D CAD tools such as SolidWorks, Onshape, or SolveSpace, exporting a 2D drawing.
  • Design software dedicated to laser cutters, such as LightBurn or similar packages.

Whichever tool you choose, make sure your document uses the correct units, your geometry is scaled accurately, and paths are clean (no tiny gaps or duplicates). Our how‑to guide and shop volunteers can help you confirm that your first files are ready.

Step‑by‑step file setup

  1. Start from a template or a clean file. If your shop offers laser templates for Illustrator, CAD, or other software, use them. They usually include the correct color legend, stroke settings, and artboard size for the machine. Otherwise, create a new document with a custom page size.
  2. Work at 1:1 scale in the right units. Design your parts at real‑world size (no "scale up at the end" tricks). Decide whether you are working in inches or millimeters and stay consistent. Many labs prefer imperial artboards for compatibility with bed dimensions.
  3. Match the artboard to your material. Set your artboard to the actual size of the sheet you will place in the laser, and leave a small margin (for example, about 0.25" / 6 mm) around the edges to account for slight size variation and bed clipping.
  4. Build clean vector geometry. The laser will try to cut every path in your file, even tiny or hidden ones. Avoid stacking shapes with heavy fills early in the design, because they can hide stray lines underneath. Before exporting, turn off fills or switch to outline/wireframe view and look for extra pieces.
  5. Assign colors and strokes by process. Decide which objects should be cuts, scores, or rasters and style them accordingly. A common convention is:
    • Cuts: no fill, hairline stroke (around 0.01 pt) in a specific color such as pure red.
    • Linear engraving (scores): no fill, hairline stroke in a different color such as pure blue.
    • Raster engraving: solid black fills (with optional grayscale for varying depth), no stroke.
    Check the label on the laser computer or template you are using: different drivers may require slightly different color values.
  6. Prepare raster images correctly. Photos or graphics you plan to raster should be high‑contrast black‑and‑white images, embedded in your file (not linked). Keep file sizes reasonable so the job does not become unnecessarily slow.
  7. Export in a supported format at 1:1 scale. Save or export to the format your shop expects (for example, AI, PDF, DXF, or SVG), double‑checking that units and scale are preserved. Including a simple reference rectangle with known dimensions makes it easy to catch scaling issues when you open the file on the laser PC.

Designing for Laser Cutting & Minimizing Cut Time

Commercial laser services charge by machine time, and even in a makerspace you will get more done if your jobs are efficient. The Sculpteo guide and other lab handbooks agree on a few key strategies.

Nesting and best use of material

  • Lay out your parts so they are packed tightly together and oriented sensibly. This is called nesting, and it reduces waste and time.
  • When possible, let adjacent parts "share" a cut line (for example, two squares that meet along one edge). The laser then cuts that edge once instead of twice, saving time and reducing heat.
  • Consider adding a perimeter cut around your design to trim down the raw sheet into manageable offcuts, instead of leaving a huge, awkward scrap.

Avoiding overlapping or duplicate lines

Overlapping geometry is one of the most common causes of slow jobs and burn marks. If two vectors sit on top of each other, the laser will trace the same line twice.

  • Check your file in outline/wireframe mode and zoom in on dense areas to look for stacked lines.
  • Use software tools where available: commands such as SelDup (Rhino), OVERKILL (AutoCAD), or "Purge coincident duplicates" (Vectorworks) can help detect extra geometry.
  • Remember that automatic tools only find exact duplicates. Partially overlapping segments still require a careful manual pass.

Linear engraving vs. rastering

Both scoring lines and rastering areas can add a lot of character to your design, but they have very different time costs:

  • Linear engraving follows vector paths once, which is usually fast, even on detailed line drawings.
  • Rastering sweeps the beam back and forth over an entire area, which can take many times longer for the same artwork.

In one lab example, a city map engraved as vectors took about 11 minutes, while the same map rastered as a filled image took around 65 minutes. Wherever you can, favor vector lines and use raster fills only where solid shading or photos are truly needed.

Choosing the right level of detail

It is tempting to engrave every brick, shingle, or pixel, but extreme detail can dramatically increase job time without adding much clarity. Often, you can "imply" a texture with a lighter pattern of lines or dots and let the viewer's eye fill in the rest.

Text, tabs, and small parts

  • Convert text to vectors. Before sending your file to the laser, turn live text into paths so font substitutions cannot break your layout. For example:
    • Illustrator: Type > Create Outlines (Shift+Ctrl/Cmd+O) and view in Outline mode (Ctrl/Cmd+Y) to see what the laser will follow.
    • Rhino: use TextObject or explode text into curves.
    • AutoCAD: use TXTEXP (where available).
    • Vectorworks: Text > Convert Text to Polylines.
  • Use tabs for tiny pieces. Very small cutouts can fall through the honeycomb bed or get sucked into the exhaust. Many labs recommend a minimum retrievable size around 0.5" × 0.5" (12 mm × 12 mm). For smaller letters or details, add small "tabs" that keep them attached to the surrounding material until you cut them free by hand.

Pre‑flight checklist for your file

  • Is the document in the correct color mode and units for your laser workflow?
  • Does the artboard match your material size, with a small safety margin?
  • Are cuts, scores, and rasters styled with the correct colors and stroke weights?
  • Have you checked for and removed overlapping or duplicate lines?
  • Are any raster images embedded, high‑contrast, and sized appropriately?
  • Have you nested parts to minimize waste and reduce cutting time?
  • Have all important text elements been converted to vectors?

These habits keep your jobs affordable and make you a good citizen of the laser lab, reducing wear on the machine and helping everyone get through the queue faster.

Next: Applications of Laser Cutting Back to Index

Part III: Applications of Laser Cutting

In a makerspace, laser cutting shows up everywhere: signs and displays, storage and enclosures, custom jigs and fixtures, and the frames and panels that hold robots, drones, and electronics together.

Signs, Displays, and Wall Art

One of the most visible uses of the laser in a makerspace is signage and decor. You can combine cut shapes, engraved lettering, and layered materials to create crisp, professional‑looking pieces without needing a print shop.

  • Shop signage and safety placards with engraved text and icons.
  • Event booth displays, nameplates, and directional signs.
  • Layered wall art made from plywood, MDF, or acrylic.
  • Engraved awards, plaques, and custom gifts.

Because vector files are easy to tweak, you can quickly update designs for new events, members, or branding.

Boxes, Enclosures, and Organizers

Tabbed boxes and flat‑pack enclosures are a natural fit for laser cutting. With a few parameters (material thickness, box size, finger joint style), you can generate patterns that interlock cleanly and assemble with glue or screws.

  • Storage bins and drawer inserts customized to your tools and parts.
  • Electronics enclosures with vent holes, cutouts for connectors, and engraved labels.
  • Display cases for projects, miniatures, or merchandise.
  • Flat‑pack furniture such as small shelves, stands, and desktop organizers.

Tools like online box generators (for example, Makercase) and nesting utilities can speed up layout, but the core idea is the same: use precise kerf‑aware joints to turn flat sheets into sturdy 3D objects.

Jigs, Fixtures, and Shop Helpers

Laser‑cut jigs and fixtures make the rest of the shop more accurate and repeatable. Because they are quick and inexpensive to produce, you can iterate until a design is just right.

  • Drill guides, alignment templates, and router guides for woodworking.
  • Assembly jigs that hold parts at the correct angle while you glue, weld, or screw things together.
  • Measuring aids, layout rulers, and story sticks customized to common projects.
  • Fixtures for holding irregular parts on other machines (CNC router, mill, etc.).

Once a jig proves useful, you can cut more copies for other members or tweak the file for different sizes and tools.

Robots, Drones, and Electronics Projects

Many robotics, RC, and electronics builds combine 3D prints, off‑the‑shelf hardware, and laser‑cut sheets. The laser is ideal for flat structural parts, mounting plates, and clean front panels.

  • Lightweight frames and arms for small robots and multirotors.
  • Sensor and camera mounts, battery trays, and protective plates.
  • Control panels with engraved labels for switches, knobs, and status LEDs.
  • Mounting templates and stencils for wiring, cable management, or PCB layouts.

At Kalamazoo Makerspace, it is common to see laser‑cut panels paired with 3D‑printed brackets and metal hardware to create sturdy, serviceable prototypes and small production runs.

Next: Digital Manufacturing Beyond Laser Cutting Back to Index

Conclusion: Laser Cutting in the Bigger Digital Fabrication Toolbox

Laser cutting is one member of a broader family of computer‑driven tools that turn digital designs into real‑world objects.

Because laser cutters work from 2D geometry, they pair well with 3D printing, CNC routers, water‑jet cutters, vinyl cutters, and more. You can laser‑cut flat parts, print complex 3D components, and combine them into assemblies that would be hard to make any other way.

For makers, the key ideas from this guide are:

  • Lasers concentrate energy into a very small spot, enabling precise cutting and engraving.
  • The choice of material matters just as much as the machine; always follow the approved materials list.
  • Good vector files and thoughtful design can save time, money, and frustration.
  • Laser cutting scales from one‑off prototypes to small‑batch production and even large‑scale industry.

If you want to go even deeper, there are excellent external tools and resources that build on the concepts in this guide: automatic nesting utilities such as Deepnest.io, box‑generator tools such as Makercase, and kerf pattern libraries from manufacturers like Trotec that showcase flexible‑cut templates and engraving ideas.

If you are ready to put this knowledge into practice, schedule a laser orientation, read our step‑by‑step How to Use a Laser Cutter guide, and then start designing your first project.